www.energystarhomesamerica.com

Issue 6, Volume 2

June 25, 2004

Rub a Dub Dub,
How much cost to fill a tub?
by Rogge Miller, Oklahoma Operations Manager

We are so very spoiled.  We do not realize how much we take for granted in our society and in our homes.  We turn the handle and in 20 seconds or so, hot water comes out.  Many of us have drinking water in our homes that also has a hot water disperser so that we no longer have to boil the water on the stove or in a microwave to make a cup of coffee or hot tea.  You can find yourself literally craving a hot shower if are in a place where there is none. Of course, my idea of roughing it is a Holiday Inn without room service. 

How much does this convenience cost us?  Some estimates suggest that we spend as much as $15 billion per annum to heat residential water. That was a “b” and not an “m” on that “illion” in case you missed it. Water heating costs are number two to heating and cooling costs. The average yearly cost for a standard efficiency 50-gallon water heater is about $202 per year with natural gas being the least expensive at $158 per year and a standard electric unit averaging $217 yearly.  However, you might be saying, "$202 per year is nothing".  I spend that much on eating out each month.  Another problem is that each household with a water heater puts an average of 3,558 pounds of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere per year. So, it is not just the money.

What are our choices when it comes to water heating? The most common type of device is the storage water heater.  These may be natural gas, propane, electric or oil. They range in size from 20 to 80 gallons.  They are called a storage type because that’s exactly what they do. They sit in the closet and store and heat water constantly, even when you are not using it. This is called standby heat loss. They are rated with an Efficiency Factor (EF) and the higher the number, the more efficient the unit. The average installed unit today has an EF of between 0.58 and 0.62. I am not badmouthing the standard storage tank; they do the job and are reasonable in cost and one storage tank does seem to stand out though.  Marathon (www.marathonheaters.com) water heaters are electric and boast an EF of 0.91 to 0.94 depending on the size of the tank. Moreover, with 5-6 inches of foam insulation you will not have to add an insulated blanket.

Actually though, there are five improvements you can perform that will save you money. The Rocky Mountain Institute says if you were to insulate your tank with an insulated blanket (check with your manufacturer to make sure it is appropriate for your model), install water saving shower heads, add aerators to your faucets, fix all hot water leaks, and insulate the first 5-6 feet of the water lines coming from your tank, you might save as much as $46.81 per year and reduce the carbon dioxide emissions by 824 pounds per year.  Other things that you can do to help save money:

• A five-minute shower and not a bath could save 10-13 gallons of hot water.
• Set the thermostat on the water heater to 120 degrees or about half way between low and medium.
• Drain the water every year to remove sediments from the tank. 

If you were to accomplish all these improvements, hot water would probably almost be free and you then could afford to buy dessert once a month on one of those eating out dates. One interesting tidbit:  one drop of water per second on the hot water side can add up to 165 gallons per year. 

The next type is demand, “instantaneous”, or “tankless” water heaters. One of the good points is they do not contain a storage tank so there is no standby heat loss when they are not in use.  Very simply, they heat water as it is needed. Ideally, one would never run out of hot water.  These units should reduce usage by around 10-15% but there are some negatives. First, they may be restricted in hot water production. A household with three teenagers could push the limit of one of these units.  They are currently very good for households that have small and easily coordinated hot water requirements.  So, if you decide to try one of these units, do your homework.  Second, make sure that the unit you are considering has a means of backflushing the water lines, especially if you are in an area with minerals in the water. This has been one of the biggest problems with this type of heater.

In addition, there are solar water heaters.  The initial cost of this type of heating is initially high, but you will eventually get your money back. This type of system is usually designed to be either a preheater or a backup for a conventional storage or demand heating system.  Solar panels on the roof use the solar energy to heat the water which will preheat the water before it goes into the storage tank, therefore it will be hot enough to use for your hot water requirements.  If you don’t think it will get hot enough, fill a water hose with water and let it sit in the summer sun for an hour.  Be very careful if you turn the water on with your hand under it. 

There is one other option and that is using geothermal for the heating and cooling needs.  With this system, one can almost get free hot water. Remember the Marathon water heater?  It can be plumbed into the geothermal system so the circulating water actually is used to heat water.  Very low heating and cooling costs and almost free hot water. What a deal.  Did I mention that the initial investment of this type of heating and cooling system may be as much as three times the cost of the traditional split furnace and air conditioning system? But again, the homeowner will recover the extra costs in probably 10-12 years and will be sitting pretty after that. In addition, costs for these systems are slowly coming down in price. From a builder’s perspective, customer satisfaction for geothermal unit is extremely high, assuming the HVAC contractor has properly installed them. Design of the duct system is critical for a geothermal system. Contact your Market Manager for more information on duct-designing.

Now you know everything that I do about hot water and probably more than you wanted to know.  The bottom line is when you replace an old water heater, you will need to spend a little more money at the front end to save money and the environment on down the line. In addition, remember that the old ways are not always the best ways. 

Inspector’s Corner

Identifying Moisture Problems
by Bernardo Lopez, Regional Manager

Moisture problems have had some of the worst effects on the durability of homes, likewise affecting occupant comfort. Builders probably aren’t aware of potential moisture problems existing around the home. One serious moisture problem is due to what is called bulk moisture intrusion. This bulk moisture can come from several sources. The most common sources of bulk moisture are:

• improperly installed gutters
• leaking pipes that are not visible within the structure of the home
• improper landscape grading which would cause water drainage to move towards the home instead of away from the home.

The most predominant moisture problem in homes today is the existence of a high level of moisture content in the air due to the presence of high relative humidity. Building science has shown that during the cooling season the adequate relative humidity range should be between 30%-50%.

We must first identify the points of entry of moisture in the home before any remediation begins. Moisture can travel through the ground by “wicking” up through the slab if some form of moisture control is not present. Also, moisture can infiltrate through any open areas in the framing of the home that were not air blocked. Moisture can also be a result of poor ventilation in bathrooms, kitchens, or from an incorrectly sized HVAC system. The HVAC system is a dehumidifier and if not sized correctly it will not remove moisture in the indoor air. These are some brief descriptions on how moisture gets into homes but now we must be able to identify moisture problems.

We will begin with the exterior of the home. Here are some areas where you would address moisture problems in the building of a home:

• verify the grade of the yard is not sloping towards the foundation. A qualified landscape professional can assist you in determining if the drainage plane is adequate.
• inspect the slab and brick walls to see any stains, discoloration, or mold growth. This will be a sign of water being absorbed from the drainage plain up through the brick wall or leaky pipes behind the walls.
• install the windows with a sealant, from the exterior to make sure they are sealed and not allowing moisture to come in as a vapor or liquid. Most new homes have flashing systems around windows to prevent moisture intrusion. Seal all penetrations with a good quality elastomeric sealant or check to make sure flashings are self sealing.
• if you are able to gain access to the roof, check any penetrations by vent pipes, roof jacks, or air hocks for any deteriorating sealants that were applied during construction by the roofer. Also, check for accumulation of gutter debris that would cause a restriction through the gutter system of rainwater flow away from the home. Install so gutters have a slop of 1/4” per foot.

Now that we have addressed the exterior, we move to the interior of the home. Moisture indoors can become a major problem as far as the health of the occupants. Mold and pests thrive in moisture laden areas and can cause illness to some people with or without previous health problems. So, we must do a more intensive moisture identification process indoors. Here are some brief areas to start identifying moisture:

• look to see if any moisture and water stains are present on the windows. This could be a sign that the HVAC system is not removing enough moisture from the air or that a spot dehumidifier needs to be added to keep the house from feeling too wet.
• check for any stains on the sheet rocked areas. These stains can be caused by pipe leaks, moisture infiltration through open areas in attics, and clogged HVAC drain pans.
• check to see if any HVAC registers are sweating and have moisture present around them. This is an indication of possible return leaks in the ductwork that are mixing warm attic air and cool air which causes condensation. Also, the supply registers may not be insulated and sealed. This will create a saturated condition that will allow moisture to form inside the ductwork.
• check the weather stripping on doors, windows, and the attic access to seal out any warm air from entering the home. Also, consider having the home performance tested for infiltration leaks and duct systems leaks to reduce moisture problems, preferably at the construction stage.
• make sure the bath fans are being operated when the homeowner is bathing or showering. Also, check to make sure the hood vent is operated when the stove is being used for cooking. This will remove any relative humidity in the home created by moisture released by the vapors from cooking. We suggest these items are added to any homeowner operations manual.
• check the floor for loose tiles, wood floors being uneven, and discoloration or bubbles on vinyl tiles. This is another example of water wicking through the slab.

These are some brief suggestions on how to identify moisture problems and their causes. If you need further assistance please contact us at 1-888-488-0206. We will be glad to be of service to you.

Energy Update

The Alliance to Save Energy hand delivered the ENERGY STAR petition to the full Senate and House Appropriations Committees on April 23rd. GWSSI was one of the 574 ENERGY STAR company partners and supporters as well as over 2,885 individuals who called on Congress to substantially increase funding in FY2005 for the EPA's important voluntary ENERGY STAR program. To view the petition and the signees, visit The Alliance.

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