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Issue 7 Volume 3 |
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July 2005 |
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Senate Bill #610: The bill is realistic, easy to implement and reaches out to mid-level income families as the credit only applies to new houses under 2,000 square feet. This is good news for everyone who’s been unable to reap the benefits of a new, energy-efficient home due to prohibitive initial cost. This bill also creates an incentive for homebuilders to implement energy-saving strategies in smaller, widely available housing. Expenditures eligible for the credit may include:
Senate Bill #610 is an excellent step toward rewarding responsible construction practices and will help ensure that builders do everything within their power to provide comfortable, affordable and sensible homes for their clients. As professional engineer Kelly Parker said, “It just makes sense on every level to build efficiently, the technology is right here - it’s just a matter of making it available to everyone.” For more information, contact: This is a basic primer on determining the capacity of the heating and cooling system needed for your home or building. The acronym “HVAC” stands for heating, ventilation and air conditioning. To save money on first cost as well as operating and maintenance of the HVAC equipment, it is important to size the systems according to the heat loss of a building in the winter and heat gain in the summer. For most houses, a standard method is recommended for estimating the loss/gain (referred to as heating and cooling loads). This method is called Manual J, and is published by the Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA). Heat loss and gain is measured in BTU’s (British Thermal Units) per hour. A ton of cooling (for air conditioning) is, by definition, 12,000 BTU’s per hour. If your house has a 32,000 BTU heat loss and a 35,000 heat gain, you need a 3 ton unit. With geothermal systems, it is particularly important to have an accurate load and to size the system to the larger of the two loads. The system should not be undersized based on the cooling load. Manual J models how the house will perform on a relatively hot or cold day, using outdoor conditions that are almost “worst case”. These design temperatures will be used to determine the temperature difference (Delta T) and calculate the heat transferred across each of the components- wall, floor, windows, etc. In Atlanta, the design temperatures are 22 F for heating and 92 for cooling. The winter inside temperature is assumed to be 70 F and the summer inside temperature is 75 F at 50% RH. The moisture content of the outside air relative to inside air is also factored in by Manual J. This helps to determine the required amount of dehumidification needed by the air conditioning system. This analysis can be done “whole house” on a floor by floor basis or by room-by-room. Unless the house is particularly large or has unusual architectural features, the whole house method is usually adequate for estimating sizing purposes. If the house will have multiple heating/cooling zones (areas that have independent temperature control) then room-by-room analysis may be needed. A copy of the plans or a drawing of the layout will be needed for a room-by-room analysis. The major factors affecting heat gain in the summer are: window type and shading, orientation and size of glass windows and doors, heat gain through dark colored roofs, infiltration of moist air, and heat gain through insulation in ceilings and walls. The major factors affecting heat loss in the winter are: heat loss through air infiltration (poor weather stripping, caulking, leaky windows and doors) and heat loss through the roof, wall, floor, windows and glass doors. Heat losses and gains through ductwork are crudely based on the location (such as attic) and R-value of the duct insulation (duct leakage, which has been shown to be a significant problem in many homes, is not accounted for by Manual J). Appliances and base loads are assumed while ventilation fans that run continuously can also be modeled. Basic information needed to run a load: Square footage by floor (or by room)
The type of all exterior windows and doors (wood frame double-pane, Argon filled, reflective glass, aluminum frame, single-pane, thermopane with storm window, thermally improved metal frame, solid core doors with or without storm doors, type of storm door, slider, French etc.)
We also need to estimate air infiltration of the building envelope for a home that has not been built. The simplified method is based on number fireplaces and construction quality (poor, average, best) although it is really more of an air sealing quality assessment. Guaranteed Watt Saver can either estimate infiltration or perform an air leakage measurement on an existing house or newly constructed home using a blower door and convert the results into infiltration values used by Manual J.
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