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Issue 1 Volume 4 |
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January 2006 |
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Energy Policy Act of 2006 Because the Tax Credit is based on the IECC Chapter 4 analysis approach there is no one magic component that will provide all the required savings necessary to achieve a 50% reduction. Also, the analysis approach means that two homes with the exact same components but with different Climate Zones, living space, volumes, and window to wall ratios will have a different % savings for heating and cooling. Therefore a component’s value or “worth” toward the 50% reduction is not constant but changes depending on the factors of the house. GWS has run hundreds of calculations using RESNET approved software to determine the relative “worth” of different building components toward achieving the 50% reduction. Although the relative “worth” of a component can change slightly for each house it is very valuable information in planning an approach to achieve the required 50% reduction. So, what steps should a GWS builder take to qualify homes for the $2,000 Federal Tax credit? Step 1: Contact GWS Marketing managers Samantha Pearson (281-808-4512) or Chris Biczynski. (214-876-4417) They will provide GWS builders with information concerning the relative worth of components along with one sample plan analysis. Step 2: The builder uses the GWS information to determine the best approach to achieve the 50% reduction in energy use. Step 3: Once an approach is decided upon by the builder, have GWS analyze several house plans using the selected approach to confirm they will meet the 50% reduction in heating and cooling for all the builder’s plans. Step 4: Builder receives a Certified Form along with his plan analysis. During build-out, GWS performs inspections confirming the 50% reduction in Heating and Cooling. Step 5: Builder keeps form in accounting records and claims the $2,000 Tax Reduction on IRS Form 3800. Using the steps above GWS builders can attain the 50% reduction level for Heating and Cooling in the most cost effective way. GWS stands ready to help our builders take advantage of this important legislation. Insulation is designed to resist the flow of heat. Many times this is referred to “Heat Loss” and “Heat Gain”. Heat, being a form of energy, has the ability to move towards cooler areas. This transfer of heat is what insulation works against. When heat flow is reduced energy costs are also reduced. So this is why the proper installation of insulation is so important. The key here is to not just save cost, but to also save energy. There are various types of insulation on the market today. But, for the sake of this article we’ll concentrate on fiberglass insulation. Batts and rolls are the most commonly used fiberglass insulation – especially in wall cavities. “Faced” insulation, or insulation with kraft paper is designed to resist the movement of moisture vapor to cold surfaces where it could condense to liquid water. “Un-faced”, or batts and rolls without the kraft paper, are becoming popular in the “Hot/Humid” climate. This is due to the usage of sheathing on the outer part of the wall, becoming an “air block” or an air barrier. It is important to choose the proper insulation when constructing a home. Each component is vital to the other, and can adversely affect the “house as a system”. Having insulation “sandwiched” between two vapor retarders will and could eventually trap moisture inside the wall cavities, causing great damage. Most codes assert the fact that the vapor retarder should be placed on the “warm-in-winter” side of the wall. These codes, around the country, are changing. Checking local practices and or building codes are essential. There are those who choose to use the faced insulation. This is suitable as long as the moisture does not become trapped within the wall cavity. Therefore, making sure the sheathing material is not considered a “vapor retarder” or “vapor barrier” is vital. The most important factor is to make sure the insulation is installed correctly, whatever is chosen. Both types of batt insulation are suitable, just be sure you understand the properties of the type you use. The kraft paper is not necessarily a vapor retarder as previously thought. When the relative humidity increases above 50%, the kraft paper ‘allows’ moisture to readily pass through. When the relative humidity is below 40%, the kraft paper effectively acts as a vapor retarder. Because most “faced” insulation is “inset stapled”, (stapled approximately a quarter inch inside the stud) the vapor retarder is not continuous. Therefore it does not serve directly as a complete vapor retarder. Un-faced insulation is usually wider than standard insulation batts in order to allow the insulation to stay within the cavity, and allows for the insulation to complete the thermal boundary. These batts are called “friction-fit” or “pressure-fit”. Whatever type you choose, be sure that you fully understand the nature of the materials. A good resource concerning vapor retarders can be found in the ASTM handbook, under ASTM C 755, which states, “...a material that adequately retards the transmission of water vapor under specific conditions”. The bottom line is to keep the moisture “vapor” from cold or cooler surfaces where it might condense. As you can see, there is a lot of background knowledge required when insulating a home. Because of the higher standards of home construction we follow today, it seems that educating ourselves about the materials we use is an important factor. If you would like more information concerning insulation, log on to the NAIMA website – (North American Insulation Manufacturers Association) @ naima.org, or call us @ 1-888-488-0206 or visit our website – GWSSI.COM. Announcements:
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